Tess Sholom / Tess Designs Articulated Rhinestone Boteh Bracelet, c. 1984–86

Rare Tess Sholom / Tess Designs Articulated Rhinestone Boteh Bracelet, c. 1984–86

A spectacular and exceptionally unusual Tess Sholom / Tess Designs articulated rhinestone bracelet or extended wrist ornament, dating to circa 1984–1986 and closely related to Sholom’s celebrated 1985 “Ray Quartet” boteh bracelet designed for James Galanos; runway fashion designer.

Measuring an impressive 11 inches in length, this dramatic statement piece is constructed from a graduating series of articulated boteh—or paisley-form—elements, richly set with brilliant clear rhinestones in gold-tone metal. The flexible articulated construction allows the ornament to follow the wrist and forearm, creating the extravagant, sculptural silhouette characteristic of Sholom’s most ambitious mid-1980s jewelry designs.

The boteh motif, with its ancient Persian and Indian associations, is transformed here into a thoroughly glamorous piece of 1980s American couture jewelry. The combination of repeated paisley forms, shimmering pavé-like rhinestone surfaces and unusually elongated proportions gives the bracelet tremendous visual presence.

Signed “Tess Designs.”

Tess Sholom’s work occupies a distinctive place in American fashion jewelry of the period, particularly through her association with legendary American couturier James Galanos. This example is especially noteworthy for its close relationship to Sholom’s “Ray Quartet” boteh bracelet of 1985, making it an intriguing piece for collectors of Tess Designs, Galanos-era jewelry and important American costume jewelry.

Details: American, circa 1984–86; Tess Sholom / Tess Designs; gold-tone metal with clear rhinestones; articulated construction; approximately 11 inches long; signed “Tess Designs.”

A rare, exuberant and highly collectible example of 1980s American couture jewelry, combining extraordinary scale, sophisticated articulation and one of Tess Sholom’s most recognizable design motifs.